St Etheldreda – detail (Statue in Ely Cathedral)
June 23rd – Today is the Feast of St Etheldreda …
The church of St Etheldreda
The church of St Etheldreda in Ely Place was originally built as a private chapel in Ely Palace (see below), owned by the Bishops of Ely, in around 1293, and pressed into service as an Anglican church after the Reformation. It was undamaged in the Great Fire of 1666, although it has been somewhat modified subsequently. It was “restored to the old faith” in 1874. The interior contains a number of memorials to Catholic martyrs, including John Houghton, Prior of Charterhouse, who was hanged, drawn and quartered at Tyburn in 1535 for challenging King Henry VIII’s supremacy over the Church. The exterior is a rare, restrained and fine surviving example of the Decorated Gothic style of ecclesiastical architecture. The church is easily overlooked on account of its tucked-away location (and small size). Etheldreda was the Abbess of Ely in the seventh century.
The decorated Gothic exterior of the church of St Etheldreda
The interior of the church, with effigies of Catholic martyrs on the walls
Stained-glass window showing St Etheldreda
Stained-glass window showing Catholic martyrs at Tyburn
John of Gaunt
John of Gaunt lived in Ely Palace after his own Savoy Palace was destroyed in the Peasants’ Revolt in 1381, and he died there in 1399. In a scene in Shakespeare’s “Richard II”, set here, his dying speech includes the immortal words:
“This royal throne of kings, this sceptr’d isle,
This earth of majesty, this seat of Mars,
This other Eden, demi-paradise
This blessed plot, this earth, this realm, this England”.
Reconstruction of Ely Palace (in the Crypt of St Etheldreda)
The palace’s gardens were said to produce the finest strawberries in London, in honour of which a “Strawberrie Fayre” is still held nearby every June. In a scene in “Richard III”, Gloster says to Ely:
“My Lord of Ely, when I was last in Holborn, I saw good strawberries in your garden there; I do beseech you, send me some of them”.
The palace’s Great Hall was famed for its banquets. One such, in 1531, attended by the then king, Henry VIII and his queen, Catherine of Aragon, is said to have lasted for five days! According to surviving records, the guests managed to get through 24 oxen, 51 cows, 91 pigs, 100 sheep, 168 swans, 444 pigeons, 720 chickens and over 4000 larks!
Sir Christopher Hatton
In 1576, the palace was ordered by Elizabeth I to be leased to her favourite Sir Christopher Hatton, for a rent of £10 a year, ten loads of hay, and a rose picked at mid-summer. It remained more or less continuously in the possession of the Hatton family until the death of the last Lord Hatton in 1772, when it was finally demolished to make way for what is now Hatton Garden.
The church and the site of the palace are visited on our “Historic Smithfield, Clerkenwell and Holborn” standard walk, and on our “Medieval London” themed special.
Further details of all our walks are available in the “Guided Walks” section of this web-site.
Bookings may be made through the “Contact/Booking” section of the web-site, by e-mail (email@example.com), or by phone (020-8998-3051).